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Testaccio District


You are sick of tourists? You find the historic center very beautiful but you can not take the crowd there? Yet with the summer approaching the tourists will be more and more numerous ... So here is another neighborhood just as nice but more distant from major tourist sites - and therefore tourists - where you can walk quietly: this is Testaccio. A popular and authentic district bordered by the Tiber, opposite the picturesque district of Trastevere.

District story:

The name of the neighborhood comes from Mount Testaccio. It is a 30-meter high artificial hill located in the center of the district. During antiquity, Testaccio was a commercial port. Among the food that was being transported to Rome were amphorae of Spanish olive oil. Once the oil was recovered, the amphorae was thrown away in a sort of dump. With time the number of amphorae was so great that it formed a hill. Today the vegetation has taken over, making these amphorae almost invisible to the naked eye. However, they are always there, which is why the site is closed to the public and subjected to numerous archaeological excavations.

The present delimitation of the district dates to the end of the nineteenth century when Rome became the capital of Italy. It is then conceived as a district intended to accommodate the factories and the workers who work there.

To see / to visit?

The communal rose garden:

The rose garden of the city of Rome is installed on the Aventine's hill, facing the ruins of the Palatine, just above the Circo Massimo. More than 1100 species of roses are present. The rose garden can be visited but is only open to the public during the flowering months, in May and June. You can also participate in free guided tours by reservation.

Address: Via di Valle Murcia, 6

Contact: rosetoromacapitale@comune.roma.it or +39 6/5746810.

The orange trees garden

Basilica Sant'Alessio + the orange trees garden :

Located near the Basilica of Santa Sabina (larger but less beautiful), the church of Sant'Alessio was first dedicated to St. Boniface until 1217. The whole interior dates from 1750, although it remains some older elements.

Behind basilica, is also a garden called "the garden of orange trees" or "the garden of Sant Alessio". This peaceful garden offers a superb panorama on the left bank of the Tiber. It is also a nice place to rest in the shade of orange trees. Often musicians make use of their talent.

Just before the basilica you will also find "The keyhole". This is a large door through the lock of which, you can observe a beautiful view, a tree-lined driveway leading to the dome of St. Peter's Basilica. However, to be able to take this beautiful photo, it will be necessary to be patient and to wait in line!

Address: Piazza di Sant'Alessio

The Montemartini power plant:

The Montemartini power station detain about 400 statues from the Capitole museum's collections in a former thermal power station.

The thermoelectric power station was inaugurated in 1912 as the first public electricity generation center of the "Société Municipal Electric" (today ACEA), named after John Montemartini, technical chief. After half a century of activity, it became obsolete and stopped production in 1963. Two decades of decline followed, until the restoration of the complex, in order to dedicate this space to cultural management services. In 1995, during the renovation of the Palace of Curators in the Capitoline Museums, closed to the public, some sculptures were temporarily exhibited in the Montemartini power plant. In 2005, after the completion of the renovations, many sculptures remained in the power station, which became a permanent museum.

Address: Via Ostiense 106

Opening Hours: from Tuesday to Sunday from 9 am to 7 pm.

pyramid of Caius Cestius

Pyramid of Caius Cestius:

Outside the San Paolo Gate there is the Pyramid of Caius Cestius, a funerary monument erected for burial between 18 and 12 BC.

37 meters high, in cement covered with marble plates, it is inspired by Egyptian models, very trendy in Rome after the conquest of Egypt in 30 BC. It is one of the best preserved ancient monuments in Rome. In the Middle Ages, popular beliefs believe there was the tomb of Remus, the unfortunate founder of Rome killed by his brother Romulus.

The pyramid is visited on the second and fourth Saturday of each month.

Address: Via Raffaele Persichetti

The non-Catholic cemetery:

The non-Catholic cemetery:

The Testaccio is also known for its Protestant cemetery. Near the St. Paul's Gate and the Pyramid of Cestius, it also hosts cat colonies, the tombs of English romantics: Shelley and Keats and that of one of the greatest political thinkers of the 20th century: Gramsci.

The rules of the Catholic Church prohibited interment in consecrated soils for non-Catholics as well as for suicides. Thus, these dead were "expelled" from the Christian community (corresponding to the city) beyond its walls. Burials took place at night to avoid manifestations of religious fanaticism.

The cemetery was officially opened under Pope Pius VII in 1821, to cater for the growing number of foreign visitors, especially students, writers and artists. It was indeed the era of romanticism and neoclassicism.

The great secular cypresses, the grass, the flowers and vegetation surrounding the tombs, the white pyramid in front of the Roman walls and the cats basking in the sun, make this little cemetery an inimitable place. You can also walk in a park overlooking the pyramid of Caius Cestius.

Address: Via Caio Cestio, 6

Where to eat?

Mercato Testaccio :

Located since 2012 in a design hall designed by the architect Marco Rietti, you will find stalls of fruits and vegetables but also low-priced shoes and many street food. At the heart of the market, there are tables and chairs allowing you to eat on site.

Address: via Beniamino Franklin

Opening Hours: from Monday to Saturday from 7 am to 3 pm.

Where to drink a coffee?

Romeow Cat Bistrot

Romeow Cat Bistrot :

Crush for this coffee - restaurant - bar with cats. The Romeow Cat Bistrot takes its name from one of its tenants the little redhead: Romeo! This coffee - restaurant welcomes you in a very warm place with a cozy and colorful decoration. One word of order: relaxation! Whether in snuggling up one of the 6 cats that are there, by coloring adult mandalas available on the tables or enjoying the delicious vegan smoothies and pastries. In the evening, the restaurant offers very nice dishes, but it is necessary to book.

Address: Via Francesco Negri, 15

Opening hours: from Wednesday to Sunday from 11 am to 11:30 pm.

Where to eat an ice-cream?

La Romana

La Romana : here everything is attractive: the refined decoration, the large number of perfumes and toppings ice-cream, the gluten-free and vegan options...

Address: Via Ostiense, 48

Opening hours: every day from noon to midnight.

Giolitti : it is one of the best ice-cream makers in the city. Two stores are present in Rome, the first near the Trevi fountain and the second in the pretty area of Testaccio.

Address: Via Amerigo Vespucci, 35

Opening hours: every day from 7 am to midnight. t

Pompi : originally known for its tiramisu (unquestionably the best of the city, or even of the country!), Pompi also offers very good ice cream!

Address: Via Galvani, 89

Opening hours: Monday, Tuesday and Thursday from 7:30 am to 8 pm, close at 10 pm the Sunday, at 11 pm the Wednesday, at 1 am the Friday and at 2 am the Saturday.

Where to party?

For centuries, the Romans used to gather around Mount Testaccio. Carnivals and festivals were organized there and taverns and cellars for storing wine were dug there. Even today, Mount Testaccio is surrounded by restaurants, bars and nightclubs.

And for a more precise address:

The planet: the largest club in the center of the capital: indeed it has 7 rooms and a large courtyard suitable for hosting events and shows. The main room playing house music and the small rooms playing techno music, hip hop ... In addition, one of the rooms with private access is sometimes used for student parties or Erasmus parties.

Address: Via del commercio, 36

Opening hours: from Wednesday to Saturday from 7 pm to 5 am.

How to get there?

The Testaccio district is located to the south of the historic center of Rome, after the uninhabited district of the ancient ruins between via Marmorata, the Aurelian walls and the Tiber.

You can get there with:

- Metro A and B

- Tram 3

- buses 38, 80, 336, 341, 451, 559

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